The Dish That Should Have Worked—But Didn't

Carmen López · 2026-07-12

You know that feeling when a restaurant dish sounds perfect on paper? The kind of combination that makes you nod and think, 'Yes, that'll work.' Then it arrives, and you're just... confused. That's exactly what happened at Kawan, a new spot in London's W1. I wasn't there myself, but I read a review that made me laugh and wince at the same time. The critic described one dish as 'bound to work, we think. But it doesn't. It's hideous.' Ouch. But also, relatable. We've all been there. ### Why Do Some Dishes Fail So Spectacularly? It's a question worth asking. Because when you're paying good money for a meal—sometimes $50, $100, or more—you want more than a culinary experiment gone wrong. You want something that actually tastes good. Here's the thing: even the best chefs can fall in love with an idea. They imagine how ingredients will play together, how the textures will contrast, how the presentation will wow. But sometimes, the reality doesn't match the vision. - **Overcomplication**: Too many components fighting for attention. - **Flavor clash**: Ingredients that sound good together but taste like a train wreck. - **Execution gap**: The idea is solid, but the kitchen can't pull it off consistently. It happens. And when it does, it's not just a bad dish—it's a bad experience. You feel let down, especially when you've heard great things. ### The High Stakes of Dining Out Let's be real: eating out is expensive. In a city like London, a meal for two can easily run $150 to $300, depending on where you go. That's a lot of money for something that might be 'hideous.' But here's the flip side: when a dish *does* work, it's magic. It's the reason we keep trying new places, even after a few misses. We're chasing that perfect bite—the one that makes us close our eyes and sigh. > 'Cooking is like love. It should be entered into with abandon or not at all.' — Harriet Van Horne That quote sums it up. When a chef takes a risk, sometimes it pays off. Sometimes it doesn't. But the ones who play it safe? They rarely create anything memorable. ### What Can We Learn From a Flop? If you're a food lover, a bad dish is just a bad night. But if you're in the industry—or just curious about how restaurants work—there are lessons here. First, feedback matters. A review like the one at Kawan isn't just a takedown; it's a signal. If a dish isn't working, the kitchen needs to know. Maybe it's a matter of tweaking the seasoning, simplifying the plate, or cutting it entirely. Second, consistency is key. One bad dish can ruin an otherwise great meal. And in the age of social media, word travels fast. A single 'hideous' dish can become a headline. Third, don't be afraid to experiment—but be ready to pivot. The best restaurants iterate. They test, they taste, they adjust. They don't cling to a failed idea out of pride. ### So, Should You Try Kawan? Honestly? I haven't been. But based on that review, I'd approach with caution. Maybe the rest of the menu is stellar. Maybe that one dish was an off night. Or maybe it's a sign of bigger issues. Either way, it's a reminder that dining out is always a bit of a gamble. And sometimes, the gamble doesn't pay off. But when it does? Oh, it's worth every penny. Next time you're out and a dish misses the mark, don't just shrug it off. Say something. Ask questions. Because your feedback might help the next diner—or even the chef—get it right. And if you're a chef reading this? Keep pushing. Just maybe taste that 'bound to work' dish one more time before it leaves the kitchen.